As a solo act creating sumptuous dry white wine,—

So why do we never drink it?

Furmint is a bit of a weirdo. I mean that in a good way, rather like the curious teenager misjudged by eccentricity before blossoming into a full-blown expressive genius. So why do we never drink it?

Actually, you might already have tasted Furmint as part of the sweet blend of grapes behind the famous Hungarian Tokaji Aszu wines. But as a solo act creating sumptuous spicy dry white wines, Furmint is less of a rolling stone and more of an unforgettable fireball.

It has a memorable spiciness and intensity that works a charm with spicy cooking, from Asian noodles to mackerel dabbed in hot horseradish.

Feeling like an alternative to fizz with smoked salmon? Find yourself a Furmint. And best of all, current prices hugely undervalue this grape’s characterful knack of reflecting its origin.

In that regard, it’s comparable to fine Riesling. In fact, the only thing that’s really weird about Furmint is why we never touch the stuff.

OLLY’S PICK OF THE BUNCH

FURMINT CONDITION: Kardos Furmint 2018 (12.5%) £12 butlers-winecellar.co.uk Minerally as an apricot dipped in a salt mine!

VENUS IN FURMINT: Tokajicum Tokaji Furmint ‘Darázskő’ 2018 (12.5%) £13.40 winebuyers.com Glossy and rich, windfall apple meets orange blossom.  

ROYAL FURMINT: Sanzon Classic Furmint 2016 (12.5%) £13.99 novelwines.co.uk Rich, moreish, tangy and fulsome – wonder white.

MAKE THE FURMINT FLY: Disznoko Tokaji Dry Furmint 2017 (13%) £14.99 Ocado Spicy light dry wine, a delicious aperitif with nibbles.

WINE OF THE WEEK

Royal Tokaji Dry Tokaji 2015 (13%) £9.99 Majestic A taut aromatic twizzle of a wine that’s fab with Thai takeaway.

This column was originally published in EVENT Magazine, Mail on Sunday, 12th April 2020

Back